Overshadowed by the big game and otherworldy landscapes found elsewhere on the the continent, West Africa is often neglected as a travel destination. It's true: there are no wildebeests, the mountains are more or less diminutive, and the waterfalls are less than spectacular. There is, however, extraordinary culture and millions of friendly people.
Ghana is a good introduction to the region. It is politically stable, English speaking, and it offers a variety of experiences. It is not without its difficulties. You may encounter power and water outages, explosive diarrhea, and public transportation that will make you arthritic. Understand that the potential discomfort is worth it. Here's why:
1. Friendliest People in the World?
A controversial claim sure, but there's a strong case for this one. First there is empirical evidence. After traveling in Southeast Asia, South America, and bits of Africa, I have found Ghanaians to be the friendliest human beings I have ever encountered. Perhaps it's the sunshine or maybe it's the relaxed rhythms of highlife. Even in chaotic Accra, people are quick to smile and ask how you are doing. Don't be surprised if you are practically adopted when traveling in rural areas. The two most common phrases in Ghana? "You are invited," as in you are invited to share this food with me, and "you are welcome," as in you are welcome to my country. There has never been a civil war in Ghana, violent crime is unheard of, and there is no religious strife, no small feat given what has happened nearby.
2. Variety of Experiences
Get down to highlife and hiplife at a club in Accra, visit the Ashanti Kingdom in Kumasi, relax on a beach near Dixcove, and hike through banana plantations in the volta region. In Northern Ghana you can travel through the pre-Saharan landscape of the Sahel and spot elephants at Mole National Park. Along the coast, you can visit slave castles, fishing villages, and palm tree-lined deserted beaches. You can find meaningful volunteer work, study music and dance, or just kick back and unwind. Ghana has a touch of everything.
3. Culture
Ghana is home to Ga, Ashanti, Ewe, Fanti, and Hausa cultures among others. All of them have rich traditions surrounding food, music, and dance. Ghana is also the birthplace of Highlife, a genre of music that made the guitar a polyrhythmic instrument and inspired African legends like Fela Kuti and Sunny Ade. Hiplife, an adaptation of highlife that uses synthesizers and drum machines, has a lyrical approach similar to hip-hop and rap. You may find yourself listening to traditional drumming on a beach in the afternoon and then dancing to Sarkodie, the young hiplife star pictured above, at a club in the evening. Music and dance are the life force in Ghana and it may indeed be one of the reasons Ghanaians are so friendly.
4. Ghana is not a Travel Destination
When you arrive in Ghana you will not be hassled by tour operators or touts claiming to offer the best deal to go see such and such attraction. You will have the luxury of creating your own tour. And while it is always worthwhile to meet other travelers, the lack of backpackers and expats in Ghana will force you to meet locals, to get to know the real Ghana. This may become the most rewarding aspect of your trip.
Ghana may not be for everyone. If you are expecting things to run on time or if you have a problem with cramped public transportation, you might want to pick a different destination. With the right attitude, however, Ghana can provide an extraordinary travel experience. I have taken two trips to Ghana and I am already planning my next. I know many others who are also stuck in Ghana's orbit. You may find the same happens to you.
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